Good Samaritans

In the last 3 days we did 55km to O'cebreiro, 53km to Barbadelo and today 59km to Melide. Tomorrow we should reach Santiago!!!

The last 4 days of cycling we have done so much climbing and descending it was actually quite tough. When we got to O'Cebreiro we thought we may be able to see Santiago in the distance but instead we saw a thousand mountains. The climb to O'Cebreiro was a 1.4 km gain about 10 to 15km of just climbing... we were knackered - it was steep and it was very hot :) The next day we raced down the same mountain. I would have been scared in a car or a Weed Killer :)

Yesterday morning we started another climb, Colette suggested we take the tarmac but I was scared we miss some beautiful scenery (lekker dom) so we ended up pushing our heavy bikes up a rocky scramble... She was not impressed... and to top it off she then got a flat tyre which must have been caused by the rocky road. Fortunately for me we were able to pump up the tyre without any patching. We had particular bad luck with tyres early in our trip, many punctures so big we couldn't patch it, so we were quite relieved when we did not need to patch. We did another 40 odd km on that tyre that day, and ended the day with a mean scramble out of Sarria. We stayed over at a stunning Auberge in a rural area, cost of only 9Euro per person. We also had their Peregrino menu for 9Euro per person. This is a 3 course meal with half a bottle of wine each, and the waiter was so professional. For the same price one sometimes get the best of Spain and sometimes not!

This morning when we got to the bikes the tyre was flat again, this time it did not hold any air. So we patched... it was another one of the big holes so we used 3 patches to get the job done. We reached for a spare tube just to discover the valve does not fit into the rim (another long story). The closest bike shop was very far away and we knew if the patch doesn't hold we would be in big trouble. The terrain for the day was hilly and rocky... not good for our tyre :/ On route we passed a group of 4 Spanish guys a couple of times... so we greated and got a bit familiar. About 20km into the day, and in our first town we lost the tyre. There was no bike shop or tyre for sale... our only option would be to take a taxi to the nearest town with a bike shop. Whilst walking through town we saw our 4 Cycling Amigos leaving a coffee shop... fortunately one of them had a tyre that would fit and we bought it from him. They insisted to help with the change so they lost lots of time. We just bumped into them again 35km later - they looked knackered after a long day in the sun and so we are so very greatfull to them.

Beyond 2000

In the last three days we did 42km to León, 57km to Astorga and 53km to Ponferrada. This took us beyond 2000km of cycling; thus far we have cycled 2098km on our holiday :) I am glad to say that we have just over 200km to go!

We camped in León and realised how much we had been missing camping. We caused a "Grande Catastrophe" for the lady that had to check us in. She can't speak a word of English and to her amusement South Africa was not on her drop-down list of countries to choose from. She did not know how to handle this and had to wait for her boss to come and give her permission to select Great Britain instead :) The campsite was really nice and did not have lots of guests - so we were able to get a good rest. The next night we stayed in a really nice auberge in Astorga, a beautifull town. The auberge had a backpacker feel to it, and we really enjoyed the stay. Tonight we are staying in a free auberge, where you just donate some money. Its really good and even plays english music :)

Today we had a nice big climb to La Cruz de Ferro and tomorrow we have an even bigger one waiting to O'Cebreiro... we can't wait to get the scary bits over! Every km is a km closer to Santiago!

The easier way

In the last 3 days we did 66km to Rabe de las Calzados, 53km to Fromista and today 75km to Calzadilla de los Hermanillos.

If you have not heard of these places, we now understand why... It mostly reminds me of Mariental in Namibia... and if you don't know Mariental: ag sies man!

The cycling has been easier the last couple of days as we have entered the flatter parts of Northern Spain. Even on sunny days we actually find it chilly, but I think we are unique in that way.

Along the way we have met so many people, a couple of days ago we met a Flemish lady... blush... we were chatting away when she told us: "Ek verstaan alles" fortunately we were only talking about arbitrary logistics :) She is doing the camino for the 10th year now! She started when she was still working as a social worker. They used to give troublesome youths the option: go to jail or do the camino! Very cool, nê! We also met one of the Spanish people that walk The Way with a can of yellow spray paint to mark the way with(See foto of Colette with him) We also met Stevie the most relaxed American and a surfing couple from Brazilia, and loads more. Walking or cycling The Way of "Saint" James is a very good experience... but it ain't easy and its not always very beautifull... but it is always rewarding!

It's also really great to see the economic injection the camino is providing to places that really is "put sonder water" it really is blessing the Spanish and they are returning the blessing with hospitality and good prices - they are not exploiting it, and that is good to see.

To "Team Willemse" I am sorry that there are so many fotos of me, but Colette is really good with the camera. To compensate I have to write the blog... so now you also get my opinion.. I am so sorry... also only my family ever comments... common you guys..!

Culture Shock

In the last 3 days we did 50km to Logroño, 51km to Santo Domingo de Calzada and 22km to Belorado.

The cycling has been significantly easier over the last 3 days, road surfaces are a bit better. However the compound effect is coming into play - this week we did +-11000 calories and cycled about 33 hours. All this not on rested legs :) Our bike cables are also in need of some TLC so we can't always find the gears we need. But the hardest part has been a lack of sleep. The noisy auberges really got to us, so last night and tonight we found some accomodation where we can be in a double room. Some sleep should help with recovery.

When we entered Logroño we first tried the local church's Auberge. After we entered we got a hug and we got the feeling that the doors locked behind us, if you know what I mean... There was no cost involved and supper with the 'father' would be at 8:30 after which he would stamp our passports. The showers were cold - but we tried to appreciate their hospitality. I started doing some cloth washing and Colette wanted to work on the bikes but we were told that the father doesn't approve of people being in the courtyard. We are not catholics, and after this the 'cloisturefobia' really got to us... halfway through washing the clothes I went to thank them for their hospitality but explained we really need to work on the bikes. We quickly escaped and got the last two beds in the municipal auberge... lucky? That night we went out for some pizas and had some local La Rioja red wine. 

Having told this story I must just add that we really appreciate the local community for their hospitality, many people volunteer to make doing the Camino really affordable - this experience was just a bit of a culture shock.